This is the fourth general update on the rebuilding of this very old module. Things have been moving along quickly and now it's almost done.
A single section of Peco code 55 flex track was enough to complete this small module end to end with a couple inches left over. I normally use while glue for laying track but on this one I used my stronger water resistant E6000 adhesive. Track was painted with Testors Rail Brown.
This is a view of the bottom of the module showing the wiring and connections to adjoining modules.
After the track was down and feeders installed I was able to complete all the wiring under the module. As pointed out in blue in this photo, areas have to be kept clear for the legs and for the clamps that will hold this module to others. That can be a bit of a challenge on a small module like this one.
This module was then tested with other modules being connected to it and a locomotive run back forth so that all the connections could be verified as working correctly.
Borrowing another good idea from our friends at FreemoN, I picked up a few welders clamps from Harbor Freight for holding the modules together.
I used Arizona Rock & Mineral ballast. The specs for AsiaNrail modules call for a switchable block gap so I cut those with a razor saw. This was done before I ballasted but I forgot to get a photo then.
While I was running the test train between the modules I started to plant the forest. There are still some details to add and some touch ups to take care of but this module is almost ready.
Showing posts with label Track. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Track. Show all posts
Monday, July 8, 2019
Thursday, August 16, 2018
Replacing some problem turnouts
With only a month to go before the next exhibit, both Paul and I have
been working on the modifications to the track on our module ends to
have the next layout "joiner-less" as explained in last April's post Joinerless joints for a quicker set up.
In past layouts we have had some problems with some equipment getting through the crossover at one end of my Musashi-Koyama module set so I decided to replace those turnouts with new Peco code 55 turnouts at the same time.
Because the Micro-Engineering and Peco turnouts have slightly different angles I had to remove some of the track back to the beginning of the platform to get everything to line up right. This photo shows the new cross over and track to the edge of the module.
Paul had ordered several Peco double track spacing guides and gave me a couple. This is what we are using for a standard on all the double track module ends that we are modifying.
The original Micro-Engineering turnouts will be rebuilt and reused on my American prototype home layout.
In past layouts we have had some problems with some equipment getting through the crossover at one end of my Musashi-Koyama module set so I decided to replace those turnouts with new Peco code 55 turnouts at the same time.
Because the Micro-Engineering and Peco turnouts have slightly different angles I had to remove some of the track back to the beginning of the platform to get everything to line up right. This photo shows the new cross over and track to the edge of the module.
Paul had ordered several Peco double track spacing guides and gave me a couple. This is what we are using for a standard on all the double track module ends that we are modifying.
The original Micro-Engineering turnouts will be rebuilt and reused on my American prototype home layout.
Monday, April 23, 2018
Joinerless joints for a quicker set up.
For display layouts made up of many small sections, installing the connecting tracks is one of the most time consuming and tedious jobs. Back in the 2014 post "We don't need no stinkin rail joiners" I presented how the track connection between the Hot Springs Junction module and the small extension module was being made without using rail joiners.
Following the success of that single track connection, I then added a double track version of this when I built the 2 Meter module to extend the Musashi-Koyama module set. This has now been used a few times with continued success.
Prior to our most recent layout Paul had also changed the interface between the 2 sections of his Shifen Station module set. This interface has 3 tracks and again we had good success with it. That area is shown here before the interface was modified.
We decided at this show that we are now ready to take the next step of modifying all of the module track interfaces to joiner-less. As I am laying new track on the Kaigan module it was laid right to the edge of the module.
I built this small module to use as a standard to align both the length of the rails and the alignment.
I placed 2 tracks on my standards module with the tracks spaced 25.5mm apart which is the AsiaNrail standard for double track.
In this photo the blue arrows point out the right hand rail on each track. Hopefully we can have these all done before our next layout setup.
Following the success of that single track connection, I then added a double track version of this when I built the 2 Meter module to extend the Musashi-Koyama module set. This has now been used a few times with continued success.
Prior to our most recent layout Paul had also changed the interface between the 2 sections of his Shifen Station module set. This interface has 3 tracks and again we had good success with it. That area is shown here before the interface was modified.
We decided at this show that we are now ready to take the next step of modifying all of the module track interfaces to joiner-less. As I am laying new track on the Kaigan module it was laid right to the edge of the module.
I built this small module to use as a standard to align both the length of the rails and the alignment.
I placed 2 tracks on my standards module with the tracks spaced 25.5mm apart which is the AsiaNrail standard for double track.
In this photo the blue arrows point out the right hand rail on each track. Hopefully we can have these all done before our next layout setup.
Friday, November 14, 2014
Another type of movable track bumper
Back in the summer of 2011 when I was getting the Musashi-Koyama module set ready for it's first exhibition I posted about making Movable track bumpers. These were designed to be placed on the road bed where the track ended to prevent a train from going off the end of the module. These have worked out well but I was going to need more for the 2014 Los Altos Train Days layout because both modules were going to be used.
Here is a photo from the original post. The original bumpers had used 1/8 inch styrene tube that fit into hole drilled through the cork and into the sub-roadbed.
The additional bumpers I have made are done the same way but instead of styrene tube I embedded track nails with the pointed end pointing down as shown in this photo.
The advantage of doing it this was is that no pre-drilled holes are needed so they can be used on any module.
Here is a photo from the original post. The original bumpers had used 1/8 inch styrene tube that fit into hole drilled through the cork and into the sub-roadbed.
The additional bumpers I have made are done the same way but instead of styrene tube I embedded track nails with the pointed end pointing down as shown in this photo.
The advantage of doing it this was is that no pre-drilled holes are needed so they can be used on any module.
Sunday, August 24, 2014
Laying track - Again
With the river scene completed and the bridges back in place, I could re-lay the track on the Ntrak lines. These had been laid temporarily with Atlas code 80 wood tie flex track held down with track nails for the show we did in April. That track was removed after the show so I could remove the bridges and finish the river scene. The permanent track is going to be Peco code 80 with concrete ties.
After attaching the feeder wires I weathered all the rails with a Floquil rail brown paint pen. This works great for concrete ties or touch ups on any track after it's installed.
For the past couple of projects I've been using Liquid Nails for projects to attach the track to the cork roadbed. The advantage of using this as opposed to the white glue I had used before is that it won't come loose when the track is wet while applying ballast. This is mostly only a problem on curved track.
When using the Liquid Nails product for attaching track, it is important to not use to much. If any oozes up between the ties, it might show up after ballasting. Just a small bead down the center of the cork roadbed then smooth that out flat as shown in this close up photo.
One of my early posts on this blog back in February of 2011 was called Ballasting the tracks where I explained the techniques I used on the Musashi-Koyama modules so I won't go through it all again here.
I am still doing ballast the same way but on this module I am using Arizona Rock & Mineral No. 130-2 Northern Pacific Medium Gray Granite which to my eye looks better with the concrete ties. I also plan to experiment with some weathering of the track that may enhance the appearance.
After attaching the feeder wires I weathered all the rails with a Floquil rail brown paint pen. This works great for concrete ties or touch ups on any track after it's installed.
For the past couple of projects I've been using Liquid Nails for projects to attach the track to the cork roadbed. The advantage of using this as opposed to the white glue I had used before is that it won't come loose when the track is wet while applying ballast. This is mostly only a problem on curved track.
When using the Liquid Nails product for attaching track, it is important to not use to much. If any oozes up between the ties, it might show up after ballasting. Just a small bead down the center of the cork roadbed then smooth that out flat as shown in this close up photo.
One of my early posts on this blog back in February of 2011 was called Ballasting the tracks where I explained the techniques I used on the Musashi-Koyama modules so I won't go through it all again here.
I am still doing ballast the same way but on this module I am using Arizona Rock & Mineral No. 130-2 Northern Pacific Medium Gray Granite which to my eye looks better with the concrete ties. I also plan to experiment with some weathering of the track that may enhance the appearance.
Friday, August 8, 2014
Finishing the station scene - Part 2
After spending what hobby time I had in July completing the wiring and controls for this module, this month I'm back to finishing the area around the station. With the platforms now secured to the module, it was time to install the foot bridge. Remember from the post Building the Green Max foot bridge that I had made my own support columns so that they would be long enough to reach ground level while the stairs would end at the platform level.
I cut short sections of square tubing that the bridge columns would fit right into. These were painted concrete color before being placed into square holes cut into the foam. White glue does not react with the foam and it was placed around the square tubing sections to settle into the space around the tubing.
Here is an over head view showing how the foot bridge rest on the platforms. While the two pairs of columns on the outside were attached to the module as shown above, the center pair was attached directly to the surface with E6000 adhesive as that area is on wood.
The plate on the bumper at the end of the station spur track was painted white and a black "X" decal was applied over the white background. In this photo, the empty concrete footings for the foot bridge can be seen in the foreground. I had intended to attach the foot bridge to the module but it fits so nicely just sitting in the footings, I now plan to have it removable for better access clean the tracks.
For weathering I use Bragdon's weathering powders in several different colors. I use a small shorted bristle paint brush to work the power into the spots I want it to be applied and the larger brush for smoothing.
Here's the assembled scene with both the station and the foot bridge weathered. The foot bridge got a bit more than the station building as I recall most of them I have seen in rural areas have had a deferred maintenance look to them.
The station area is now basically complete. Later I will be adding some signs, people, and other details but for now I am going to move on to completing the river scenes.
I cut short sections of square tubing that the bridge columns would fit right into. These were painted concrete color before being placed into square holes cut into the foam. White glue does not react with the foam and it was placed around the square tubing sections to settle into the space around the tubing.
Here is an over head view showing how the foot bridge rest on the platforms. While the two pairs of columns on the outside were attached to the module as shown above, the center pair was attached directly to the surface with E6000 adhesive as that area is on wood.
The plate on the bumper at the end of the station spur track was painted white and a black "X" decal was applied over the white background. In this photo, the empty concrete footings for the foot bridge can be seen in the foreground. I had intended to attach the foot bridge to the module but it fits so nicely just sitting in the footings, I now plan to have it removable for better access clean the tracks.
A bit of weathering
For weathering I use Bragdon's weathering powders in several different colors. I use a small shorted bristle paint brush to work the power into the spots I want it to be applied and the larger brush for smoothing.
Here's the assembled scene with both the station and the foot bridge weathered. The foot bridge got a bit more than the station building as I recall most of them I have seen in rural areas have had a deferred maintenance look to them.
The station area is now basically complete. Later I will be adding some signs, people, and other details but for now I am going to move on to completing the river scenes.
Thursday, May 1, 2014
We don't need no stinkin rail joiners !
I have long admired the modular N Scale layouts that have track that runs right up to the modules edge and don't require that a connecting section of track and rail joiners be installed at each module junction.
Ntrak and AsiaNrail standards use a set back of the track from the module edge and then a short section of flex or sectional track to connect modules. Installing these and their rail joiners is tedious and takes quite a bit of time during set up.
The Hot Springs junction module was going to need a special transition module to allow for mechanical connection to the AsiaNrail modules. When I posted about building this small module I left off just before laying the track. As these to modules would always have to be used together, I thought this would be a good place to try a joiner less track connection.
AsiaNrail uses Peco code 55 track, which has a code 80 sized rail embedded into the plastic molded ties. This provides for a very stable rail. Also, because there is only one track in this case, I am able to adjust the alignment of the modules to line up the rails. I'm not so sure how well this would work on something like a multiple track staging yard.
When I installed the track I slightly rounded the top edges at the end of the rails. This photo shows a closeup of this.
During the recent 8 day long run many 2 to 3 car trains passed over this joint and no derailments at all were reported.
Ntrak and AsiaNrail standards use a set back of the track from the module edge and then a short section of flex or sectional track to connect modules. Installing these and their rail joiners is tedious and takes quite a bit of time during set up.
The Hot Springs junction module was going to need a special transition module to allow for mechanical connection to the AsiaNrail modules. When I posted about building this small module I left off just before laying the track. As these to modules would always have to be used together, I thought this would be a good place to try a joiner less track connection.
AsiaNrail uses Peco code 55 track, which has a code 80 sized rail embedded into the plastic molded ties. This provides for a very stable rail. Also, because there is only one track in this case, I am able to adjust the alignment of the modules to line up the rails. I'm not so sure how well this would work on something like a multiple track staging yard.
When I installed the track I slightly rounded the top edges at the end of the rails. This photo shows a closeup of this.
During the recent 8 day long run many 2 to 3 car trains passed over this joint and no derailments at all were reported.
Monday, July 4, 2011
Movable track bumpers
June came and went with only one post to this blog. Part of the month Nona and I drove to the Dallas, Texas area to pick up a travel trailer that we had purchased.
Over this 4th of July weekend I have been making final preparations to take these modules for their first exhibition in Sacramento as part of the AsiaNrail layout. On Friday, I took the modules over the Paul Ingrahams place as he had most of the rest of the layout set up in his garage and we wanted to work out any bugs with getting the Musashi-Koyama modules into the layout ahead of time. I am happy to say that any problems were small and have already been solved.
The modules can be used in a number of different ways and for this layout this is going to be an end of line terminal station. The last thing one wants to the have a train overshoot the end of the line and fall several hundred scale feet to the floor ! So I needed to come up with some track bumpers.
What I came up with was to shape scrapes of 1/2 inch plywood and painting them a concrete color. Then I drilled a pair of 1/8 inch holes and inserted 1/8 inch styrene tubes with Walthers Goo to secure secure them.
From the same pattern used to drill the holes in the bumpers, Holes are drilled on the center line of the roadbeds at each end of the module. When this end of the module connects to another part of the AsiaNrail layout, the holes will be covered by connecting tracks.

Styrene strip was painted black, and then attached to the flat side of the bumpers. Then some safety striping was cut from a sticker set and applied to the styrene. These can now be moved to wherever they are needed depending on the use of the modules in a layout.
Over this 4th of July weekend I have been making final preparations to take these modules for their first exhibition in Sacramento as part of the AsiaNrail layout. On Friday, I took the modules over the Paul Ingrahams place as he had most of the rest of the layout set up in his garage and we wanted to work out any bugs with getting the Musashi-Koyama modules into the layout ahead of time. I am happy to say that any problems were small and have already been solved.
The modules can be used in a number of different ways and for this layout this is going to be an end of line terminal station. The last thing one wants to the have a train overshoot the end of the line and fall several hundred scale feet to the floor ! So I needed to come up with some track bumpers.
What I came up with was to shape scrapes of 1/2 inch plywood and painting them a concrete color. Then I drilled a pair of 1/8 inch holes and inserted 1/8 inch styrene tubes with Walthers Goo to secure secure them.


Styrene strip was painted black, and then attached to the flat side of the bumpers. Then some safety striping was cut from a sticker set and applied to the styrene. These can now be moved to wherever they are needed depending on the use of the modules in a layout.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Ballasting the tracks
It's time to ballast the track and while I have ballasted my share of N Scale track, this project presented some new elements.
So I started by removing the station platforms and placed blue painters tape over the area that the platforms go on.

Before applying any ballast I decided to paint the sides of the cork roadbed with some gray paint. This will help to hide any bare spots.
The cork roadbed could also be painted before laying the track so that the areas between the rails would also be covered but most of the bare spot problem occurs on the sides.

I apply the ballast first between the rails and then along the outsides of the rails. I like to use an old painting pad like the one shown in this photo to evenly spread the ballast.
A small dry paint brush is also used.
This is what it looks like with the dry ballast spread on a section of the track.
I used a "wet water" solution of 2 drops of liquid dish washing detergent to a 1 ounce bottle of water. I gently stir the solution and don't shake it so it won't get any bubbles. Then with a pipette I slowly release small amounts of this solution over the track and let it spread.

Then I used a 50 / 50 mixture of white glue and water mixed in an empty 1 ounce paint bottle again applying it with a pipette. I do between the rails first then along the outsides of the rails. I let this sit overnight to dry.
Here is a small example of the finished work. After the blue tape is removed, the platform has a clean area so it will sit flat and level.
While I am generally happy with the result I do think that the contrast in texture between the ties and the ballast cause the ties to look like the plastic that they are and if I were to do it over I would first air brush the ties with concrete colored paint. But you know everything we do in this hobby is a chance to learn something new.
- Using some pre-ballasted Kato Unitrack I wanted to match the color of that so I used Arizona Rock and Mineral Co. Gray blend limestone, part number 105-2. I like to use HO scale material for ballast because I will use N scale material for the smaller gravels like roads.
- First time using the Micro Engineering turnouts. I want to be real careful about getting any glue into these as I've already seen that they are more delicate than the Peco turnouts.
- Also the first time using any track with concrete ties, how will that look ballasted ?
So I started by removing the station platforms and placed blue painters tape over the area that the platforms go on.

Before applying any ballast I decided to paint the sides of the cork roadbed with some gray paint. This will help to hide any bare spots.
The cork roadbed could also be painted before laying the track so that the areas between the rails would also be covered but most of the bare spot problem occurs on the sides.

I apply the ballast first between the rails and then along the outsides of the rails. I like to use an old painting pad like the one shown in this photo to evenly spread the ballast.

This is what it looks like with the dry ballast spread on a section of the track.


Then I used a 50 / 50 mixture of white glue and water mixed in an empty 1 ounce paint bottle again applying it with a pipette. I do between the rails first then along the outsides of the rails. I let this sit overnight to dry.

While I am generally happy with the result I do think that the contrast in texture between the ties and the ballast cause the ties to look like the plastic that they are and if I were to do it over I would first air brush the ties with concrete colored paint. But you know everything we do in this hobby is a chance to learn something new.
Friday, November 5, 2010
3 Types of Track
First an update on the station. Today I painted the roof of the station building, the roofs of the platform awnings, and the concrete part of the platforms. A friend in Tokyo is checking for me on the proper colors of the platform supports and the outside walls of the station before I paint those parts.
This evening I put the work on the modules aside for awhile so I can catch up on some DCC decoder installations and get some things ready for a train show on Thanksgiving weekend. As I have enjoyed making regular updates to this blog, I wanted keep this up by going back to something I skipped over earlier and that would be track.
Within the 6ft of double track line I am using 3 types of track - Peco code 55, Micro Engineering code 55, and Kato Unitrack. The way this came about is the AsiaN Rail standard uses Peco code 55. I was already familar with it as I am using the wood tie version on my home layout. On this project I am using the concrete tie version. Thing is I wanted to have a couple of cross-overs so this module could be a passing siding or stub end station if it were on a single track line of AsiaN Rail. I decided to try out the Micro Engineering code 55 turnouts on this small project because I am also considering them for a future large layout project. I got the cross-overs made up to my specification by someone who was selling on ebay. So far, just with test runs they work as advertised.
As mentioned in prior posts, I am using steel wire connecting rods inside plastic tubing to make the linkages between the turnouts and the Tortise switch motors. The tubing sets into the 1/8 inch cork that covers most of the area between the tracks and the skyboards.
Then I decided to use the Kato adjustable length sections for the connecting tracks at the joint between the two modules to make setup quicker. The photo below shows this area of track without the connecting tracks or the platforms.
This evening I put the work on the modules aside for awhile so I can catch up on some DCC decoder installations and get some things ready for a train show on Thanksgiving weekend. As I have enjoyed making regular updates to this blog, I wanted keep this up by going back to something I skipped over earlier and that would be track.
Peco code 55
To
M/E code 55
Within the 6ft of double track line I am using 3 types of track - Peco code 55, Micro Engineering code 55, and Kato Unitrack. The way this came about is the AsiaN Rail standard uses Peco code 55. I was already familar with it as I am using the wood tie version on my home layout. On this project I am using the concrete tie version. Thing is I wanted to have a couple of cross-overs so this module could be a passing siding or stub end station if it were on a single track line of AsiaN Rail. I decided to try out the Micro Engineering code 55 turnouts on this small project because I am also considering them for a future large layout project. I got the cross-overs made up to my specification by someone who was selling on ebay. So far, just with test runs they work as advertised.
As mentioned in prior posts, I am using steel wire connecting rods inside plastic tubing to make the linkages between the turnouts and the Tortise switch motors. The tubing sets into the 1/8 inch cork that covers most of the area between the tracks and the skyboards.
Then I decided to use the Kato adjustable length sections for the connecting tracks at the joint between the two modules to make setup quicker. The photo below shows this area of track without the connecting tracks or the platforms.
Peco code 55
to Kato Unitrack
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)